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Plumbing - the facts about radiators
1. There are radiators available to fit any position in a room, from squat, low models for beneath windows and tall, thin designs for narrow spaces. They can be plain and functional, or unique pieces of art. They can also be invisible: trench radiators, sunk under the floor with a grille cover, or skirting radiators, which run within the skirting board profile at floor level, are great when there is insufficient wall space. For a simple but attractive look in any style, column radiators are a classic choice for added interest choose models that are much taller than they are wide, or vice versa. In the bathroom, stainless steel towel rails are near compulsory, but don t worry about not having warm towels in the summer: some models have a supplementary electric heater for when the central heating is off.
2. Radiators are given a temperature value which is calculated and recorded as BTUs (British Thermal Units) per hour, a standard used throughout the industry. It is important that you find out how many BTUs/hr you will require from your radiators before selecting a style, so you will know whether a radiators/">radiator will be suitable for your requirements or not. You can easily work this out yourself by using the online calculator at www.theradiatorcompany.co.uk.
3. Single- or double-panel pressed-steel radiators are the cheapest option and are readily available off the shelf. Steel in general tends to be the most cost-effective material and is also lightweight, a good heat conductor and very versatile. Cast-iron-style column designs are available — as steel is far cheaper — and the metal is also the preferred choice for many unusual and designer radiators, because it is easy to bend, cut, weld and shape.
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4. Cast iron column radiators are perfectly suited — though not ”restricted — to traditional homes, and many manufacturers produce accurate period reproductions. Cast iron radiators are an expensive choice and take a long time to heat up, so you need to set the timer carefully so they come on well in advance of when the room is used though cast iron will retain its warmth when the radiators are switched off for a lot longer than other materials.
5. Reclaimed cast iron radiators are often cheaper than new models, and possess unique character; however, it is difficult to spot problems in a salvage yard, such as hairline cracks or sludge , which can damage a new heating system. Ensure that any radiators/">radiator you purchase is well flushed out and pressure-tested for leaks. Ideally, it should also be shot-blasted clean. Bear in mind that old radiators are likely to be made for imperial-size plumbing fittings and rarely come with original valves, which can complicate the installation.
6. Another popular radiators/">radiator material is aluminium, which is lightweight and an excellent heat conductor. Other available —though less common — metals are copper and brass. If you want something ultra-modern and sleek, glass and mirror radiators are increasingly in demand; or for something altogether different, consider a flat stone radiators/">radiator in smooth marble or granite.
7. You can specify pre-finished radiators in almost any colour, usually powder-coated. You can also specify metallic finishes in stainless steel or chrome (though chrome finishes are known to slightly reduce heat output). However, many less-expensive radiators come primed ready for painting. You can buy radiators/">radiator paint at DIY stores, but ensure you do buy paint specifically intended for this job. 8. Most radiators come in standard sizes, typically between 300mm and 700mm high and from 500mm to 3,000mm long. Manufacturers tend to produce three or four height options, each available in lengths which increase in 100mm steps. Column radiators are often ordered and priced in sections.
9. You may have heard that positioning radiators beneath windows aids their performance. This does have some truth to it, but means you can t have long curtains at the window. With today s high standards of insulation, you can easily get away with putting radiators elsewhere. Large rooms may require more than a single radiators/">radiator one for every four metres is a good guide to work to.
10. You could pick up a standard pressed-steel radiators/">radiator for as little as £25; for £100-300 you could buy a good-looking designer radiators/">radiator; but for particularly sleek or unique designs, £400-1,000 or more isn t uncommon. Cast iron column radiators cost between £2050 per section. You may want to consider just buying one or two feature radiators, with budget installations in less-important rooms. Source: Homebuilding&renovation
Plumbing
Thanks for giving a mention to skirting board heating, which seems to be so often omitted from many such articles. In case your readers would be interested to source skirting board heating, my company can help. We market Climaboard, Italy’s top performing system with heat output of over 300W/mtr at 70C. Details at via http://www.climaboarduk.com. We have stock in Epsom, Surrey available for delivery throughout the UK.
Best wishes
Bob Squirrell
just a tiny quibble about your very useful website. On the page about radiators you say “Radiators are given a temperature value which is calculated and recorded as BTUs”.
it’s just that it is not a “Temperature value”. It’s more a thermal output rating.
As I say just a tiny quibble…
keep up the good work.
thanks George for clearing that up. I’m always learning on this subject and welcome all to help me present the correct facts.
thanks again
The old steel panel radiators of 30 years ago, were painted with a thick enamel. They also gave off a powerful RADIANT heat, heating the body and objects quicker than the air, enabling a low room thermostat and saving of gas.
My new convectors do not give this heat to the body, but just warm the air, which quickly disappears through heat loss areas, and the room thermostat must be much higher wasting gas.
The new powder coating on rads must have a detrimental effect on the radiant heat output compared with enamel? And the steel is more like tin.
I know the modern rads have been made lighter in weight with less water content, but the powerful radiant heat of the old rads is lacking,making it necessary to raise the room thermostat, and the comfort warmth is also lacking.
I do not understand why the modern convectors are considered as energy saving as they are not.
I am desparately seeking the old steel panels ones I had as they were were far superior to my new convectors. They warmed the walls, which kept the night temperatures higher in the sub-zero temps, with heating off. But day AIR temp in room was no more than 21 degrees.
With convectors I must have 26 degrees, but still the night temp goes lower in the night, than with my old rads, that only needed to be 21 during the day.
My old ones were much more energy saving, and don’t know why they have been made obsolete?!!!!
Is cast iron radiator suitable to run in a convencional system boiler & unvented cylinder? Are they also expensive to run in comparison to the aluminium version?
Thanks g