Underfloor heating: wet or electric?
July 9, 2008 by kotoman · Leave a Comment
What are the pros and cons to the wet or ‘dry’ underfloor systems?
Wet systems
Wet systems circulate low temperature water (typically 50˚C) through a series of continuous pipe loops under the floor.
Great for: New-build properties, complete renovations, extensions and large areas.
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Wine cellers for the common folk
It has been interesting to watch the changes in home design over the years. I vividly remember proposing a timber floor to some customers for their living room in the early Nineties, and being regarded as a radical with terribly modern ideas.
Sometimes these shifts follow technological development, or develop due to demand and marketing. En-suite bathrooms, under-floor heating and home cinemas have all become popular in recent years, whereas before they were very much the exception.
One specialist feature that has recently emerged is wine storage. It will be interesting to see how the various storage units shift this Christmas – I can’t imagine that this boom in storage is due to anything but our gastronomic development over the past decade. But wine storage doesn’t end with racks for the kitchen counter. You can call in specialist firms to dig you a wine cellar.
The most important factors to consider when storing bottles of wine for more than a few weeks are temperature, humidity, stability and isolation. In short, like Greta Garbo, the wine just wants to be left alone.
Ideally, wine should be stored at a steady 10C. Although a fluctuation of up to 5C either way is acceptable, it is important to avoid sudden changes in temperature. The humidity should be stable, too. Again, the ideal is 70 per cent non-condensing, to ensure that the cork will not dry out. If the cork dries, it will shrink, allowing the wine to oxidise. For the same reason, bottles should be kept horizontal to keep the wine in contact with the cork on the inside.
Stability is also important, so try to keep your wine undisturbed over a long period. Vibrationscan upset delicate vintages; even those caused by household noise. Sunlight can damage wine, too, and even paper and food can be contaminants.
So where best should wine be stored? There seem to be two popular answers: either in a special fridge-like cabinet, or in a wine cellar.
In many kitchen showrooms, the wine cabinet has become the de rigueur requirement alongside the fridge, oven and dishwasher. These are special (and quite expensive) temperature and humidity controlled appliances that generally look much like a glass-fronted fridge. It strikes me, however, that the potential for vibration of the chiller pump, combined with the temperature variation every time the fridge door is opened and closed, would make these less than ideal. If you are lucky enough to have a cellar beneath your house, it may be convertible for wine-storage. Failing that, the best solutions I have come across are by a company called Spiral Cellars (www.spiralcellars.com).
These are a range of prefabricated storage units that can be buried into your kitchen or utility-room floor, accessed via a trapdoor. Concrete wine racks form part of the structure and provide stable storage, taking full advantage of the thermal mass of the earth below ground level to maintain a steady temperature. Generally, they require a floor space of approximately 2.5m square, but this depends upon the model and capacity you choose.
The trapdoors can be laid with the same floor finish as the existing one; alternatively, it can be formed in glass so that you can gaze lovingly at your precious wines from above.
Most models have some form of spiral steps for ease of access (hence the name). They do require ventilation, but passive ventilation is sufficient via two plastic waste pipes, so there is no need for pumps or motors, and the vibration that they cause. Better still, you’ll be making use of space that’s currently doing nothing, rather than clogging up your kitchen with yet another piece of kit.
Project: Adding wine storage
How much will it cost?
An appliance-type wine cabinet will cost in the region of £900 to £4,000, whereas a concrete, in-floor wine cellar starts from £7,000, depending upon the style and its capacity. The labour costs involved in installation will also vary, and depend on the existing construction of your floor, so this needs to be factored in, too.
How much hassle is it?
Having a large hole dug into your kitchen floor is likely to be disruptive if you are trying to live and function around the works. While these things can be fitted very swiftly, it may be judicious to plan a strategic holiday to coincide with the cellar’s arrival.
Where do I start?
First, do a little research; look at the websites for various alternative products and try to find the one that best fits your individual circumstances. If you have specific needs that a proprietary product will not meet, an architect could design a bespoke solution, although there is likely to be a more significant cost for something one-off.
source: independent
Building Regulations Inspection Stages
December 27, 2007 by kotoman · Leave a Comment
The building inspectors - however scary the title is, as long as you don’t try and pull the wool over their eyes, I’ve found that they are most helpful, and are more than happy to talk you through the stages and answer any questions that the newbie may have. I’ve put together the stages that you’ll need to contact them. It’s worth adding that it’s best to get them in to see any new structures before you plasterboard, as well as the insulation stage and electrics. They will typically need a days notice so plan ahead or avoid delay.
Building Regulations Inspection Stages |
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| Stage of Work | Notice Required |
| Commencement | 2 days prior to inspection |
| Excavation of foundations | 1 day prior to inspection |
| Concrete foundations | 1 day prior to inspection |
| Damp-proof course | 1 day prior to inspection |
| Hardcore oversite | 1 day prior to inspection |
| Drain connection with sewer | 1 day prior to inspection |
| Drain inspection | 1 day prior to inspection |
| Drain backfilled & reay for test | within 5 days |
| Final completion or occupation before completion | 5 day prior to inspection |
| Typical cost will be £4-500 one off fee | |
Understanding bricks
December 20, 2007 by kotoman · Leave a Comment
Bricks are normally priced per thousand for self build projects. When calculating how many you need, allow 60/m2 (facing) but add on 5-7% for wastage. Ensure that your quote includes delivery.
You can order new bricks through builder's and brick merchants, or direct from a manufacturer. Most suppliers offers a brick-matching service, and manufacturers can provide specials and arches.
Beware brick registration, where the merchant registers your quote with the manufacturer, so you will find it difficult to get a cheaper price elsewhere. Be on guard and give out your details sparingly.
The ultimate choice is handmade bricks, which have an appealing distinctive texture but are expensive. You could instead specify machine-thrown simulated handmade, which are cheaper, but still have a good character.
Cheaper options include: stock bricks, which are machine moulded and have a slightly irregular shape; wire-cuts, which have a smooth, regular shape; and concrete and sandlime bricks, which are characterless in appearance, but far cheaper that the other options.
Reclaimed bricks add instant period character to a new build or extension. However, they are often in imperial or random sizes. Even though they are expensive, their durability might be questionable.
Bricks are graded either FL, FN, ML or MN. The first letter relates to frost resistance (F: very frost resistant; M: Medium). Use F bricks below the DPC, for cills and chimneys. The second letter relates to salt content (low and normal). L will reduce the risk of efflorescence.
Brick types
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| Common brick | Engineered brick | Waterstruck brick | Wirecut brick |
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| Handmade brick | Reclaim brick | Stock brick | Imperial brick |
source: Which
builders FactsRenovating listed buildings
November 26, 2007 by kotoman · Leave a Comment
British townscapes are rich in their variety of building styles and ages. Much of the charm of many of our towns is generated by the contrast of starkly different buildings juxtaposed together, many of which have themselves been altered and extended over time. While these happy mixtures generally happened ad hoc, these days we have rules in place to preserve things.
To protect the integrity of the historic and picturesque, we have the system of listed buildings administered by local-authority planning departments, backed up by English Heritage and Historic Scotland. But what if you are thinking of buying a listed building? And what if you want to make changes?
In my experience, people generally fall for one of two significant misconceptions. The first error is to think that if a building is listed, then any alterations are out of the question – this is quite simply not the case. At the other end of the scale, many people assume that only parts of a particular building are listed.
I have heard countless throwaway comments along the lines of “it’s only the front façade that is listed” or “that part isn’t listed because it isn’t original”. This is nonsense. If a building is listed, it is entirely listed – the good, the bad, the ugly, the later extension, lean-to and all.
It may be that a building is listed due to a particular element of the design, but the whole building is subject to the listing.
In a Georgian terrace, for example, where the consistency of the terraced façade is important to the street scene, it may be acceptable to the conservation officers to propose to alter other parts of the building.
However, it is very risky to make assumptions on this basis, particularly assumptions that will guide decisions over whether or not to spend hundreds of thousands of pounds.
Such features as chimney breasts and purlin props in a roof space (which often need to be removed to convert a loft) are often prized by the conservation officers but are common examples of where people simply don’t imagine that they are breaking any rules. It is very important to be careful, not just because you could get seriously unstuck financially, but (unlike most planning issues that are common law) because unauthorised demolition or alteration of a listed building is subject to criminal law.
So, while great care must be taken to both understand and obey the rules, it is also important to see that all sorts of alterations to listed buildings are perfectly acceptable and in many cases encouraged. The planning guidance for listed buildings acknowledges that buildings need a meaningful and relevant use to keep them vibrant.
A few years ago, we proposed alterations to a beautiful and historic old house near Westbury in Wiltshire. The house had been empty for some time and was not selling because while it was very large, it had few bedrooms and bathrooms.
Our customers were a family with several young children and we proposed two new bedrooms and a bathroom in the roof space. The proposals did not alter the exterior, other than the addition of two conservation-grade roof windows, but to create the rooms, we needed to alter some of the roof trusses.
This created a conflict in the guidance because while we proposed alteration to some of the “primary structure” (not encouraged!), it facilitated a more relevant use for the building. The local planning committee decided that the vibrancy that a young family would bring to the village outweighed the importance of authentic internal roof structure, and the project went ahead to a happy conclusion.
So if you are thinking about the purchase of a listed building with a view to changing it, the lesson is that while great care must be taken to understand both the rules and the qualities of the building itself, you may well be able to make the changes you hope for.
Project: making alterations to a listed building
How much will it cost?
Alterations to a listed building may cost significantly more than alterations to a standard house because specialist craftsmen and/or materials may be required. Thatching and stoneworking skills are in demand and this can push up the price. In one example, a simple ramp to replace three steps cost £11,000 because of the necessary specifications of the matching stone. The good news is that alterations to a listed building that do have consent are zero-rated for VAT.
How much hassle is it?
Just getting consent can require a great deal of consultation and this means time and patience. A recent project to replace a 1970s extension with a new, slightly larger one took the best part of a year to get through the planning system. So if you are planning to make changes in a hurry, you may need to think again.
What’s the first step?
First of all, it is important to work out what you really want to do with the property – it is important not to cloud this consideration with what may or may not be allowable. Then ask to see the file for the property at the local planning office. This should include plenty of information on the planning history, which will give you lots of clues as to the feasibility of what you hope to do.
source: independent
Facts Info listed planning planning permission
